The Florence Fit Report: Street Style Notes From Pitti Uomo 106
A special debrief with photographer Cae Normanha.
Every summer, the menswear world descends on Florence for the summer edition of Pitti Uomo — part trade show, part style circus, part heat endurance challenge. It’s where linen suits, sweat-slicked leather loafers, and oversized sunglasses meet in the courtyard of the Fortezza da Basso for a four-day lesson in global taste.
This season, I tapped my friend and photographer Cae, who was on the ground shooting and people-watching, to report back with what he saw, what surprised him, and what trends feel like they're here to stay (for better or worse).
Here’s what caught his eye at Pitti 106:
The High-Waisted Invasion
Whether single, double, or even triple pleated, high-waisted trousers were the backbone of nearly every noteworthy outfit this season. Paired with tucked shirts, short jackets, or just a good belt, the silhouette felt grounded in tailoring but relaxed in execution. In other words, sprezzatura’s risen from the dead just like our waistlines.
Sandals Season
Sandals were everywhere, but not your gorpy Tevas or Keens. It’s the fisherman sandal that seems to have hit peak saturation, often styled with tailoring or flowy trousers. A few showgoers even pulled off what Cae described as “open loafers” — hybrids that blurred the line between slip-on and strapped-up.
The Double-Breasted Renaissance
DBs were inescapable this season, marking what Cae jokingly called an “invasion.” Some leaned classic (navy hopsack, cream linen), others were more experimental, cut loose or cropped short. Either way, they were worn open, wrinkled, and without a hint of stiffness.
Black Tailoring in 90° Heat? Apparently Yes.
One of the more surprising themes was the presence of black suits and black separates, despite the summer sun. The Alfargo’s crew led the charge here, making monochrome look both formal and fresh. With lightweight fabrics and looser silhouettes, it somehow worked.
Accessory of the Moment: The Belt
With all the high-waisted trousers came a natural companion: the belt. From vintage-inspired western styles to minimalist leather, belts acted less as functional add-ons and more as centerpieces, breaking up tonal looks and adding structure to flowing fits.
What Didn’t Show Up
Perhaps most surprising was what wasn’t there. Apart from the belts, cowboy influences that were once trending hard on runways and in editorials seemed to cool off this season. Same with the usual summer suspects: lighterweight linens, seersucker suits, and the whole "light and breezy" palette we’ve come to expect in summer.
A Final Thought
Trends aside, Pitti still remains a barometer for how men want to dress, or at least how they want to be seen dressing. For many, Pitti is about performance and presence. Perhaps most importantly, it’s about playing the game in your own way. My favorite look? Goldie in his signature fila gobi and Thom Browne kilt.
Great article & thanks for expanding my vocab with ‘sprezzatura’ 👏🏻